How to Install a Shower Base on Concrete Floor | Top Notch Step to Follow
This article is meant to educate us on how to install a shower base on the concrete floor, the tools recommended from amazon for the installation of shower drain base on concrete fall, and other necessary topics which will be discussed in the article.
How to Install a Shower Base on Concrete Floor: Tools Required
Before you start installing a shower base, you should have the following materials and tools with you:
Downspout, flexible hoses, and siphon
Brush and gloves
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How to Install a Shower Base on Concrete Floor
Our shower base is made with Strato. The necessary shower trays are made of a highly resistant material with minimal absorption; they are non-slip and have a treatment that prevents bacteria’s proliferation. All our products are manufactured under strict quality controls to certify their optimal performance.
Step-1: Prepare the ground
- Check the plate and check that it has no anomalies or damage
- Check that the plate drains correctly
- Also, check that the plate conforms to the client’s characteristics regarding colour, texture, and measurements.
Step-2: Installation options
It depends a lot on the depth and distance at which the downspout or the siphon pot is located. These factors will determine the inclination of the installation and, consequently, an optimal drainage capacity. This decision has to be made based on the result of a drainage test. We will test, with the valve positioned in the position it would occupy once the plate is installed, the minimum height at which the water flows correctly. This minimum height will be what will determine the final position of the plate.
There are three installation options:
- Recessed on the ground
- Installation on the ground
- On a raised base soil preparation
Like any plate with a synthetic base, the STRATO and BASIC plates are elements with a certain elasticity that allow them to perfectly withstand changes in temperature, which requires us, in turn, that they are placed on a perfectly flat, compact, smooth, and leveled.
That is, these plates are not installed on four bricks; they would end up deforming. –
Before placing the plate, we must make sure that the base is dehydrated. If the gray cement mortar is not dry, it can “pull” the plate by bending it or cracking it. The wet mortar can also prevent a correct future grip with the plate.
- The base must be a mortar, at least in the upper part that is in contact with the plate, never sand only, as the sand would end up compressing, yielding, and not doing its function correctly.
- If you want to speed up the plate’s installation, we recommend the use of quick cement. – Only the minimum gap necessary to work on the valve placement and the drain pipe channel should be left in the base.
- If you want to speed up the plate’s installation, we recommend the use of quick cement. – Only the minimum gap necessary to work on the placement of the valve and the drainpipe channel should be left in the base.
Step-3: Placement of the elements: drain and plate drain placement
pipe, the appropriate tests must be carried out to verify that the water circulates with good head and no losses in any installation section. We recommend flexible PVC for ease.
Check that no element of the installation protrudes from the base’s level, as this would cause an irregular seating of the plate that could even deform it. Special care if the valve is above the level of the base plating the plate. Unpacking the plate will be carried out with special care to hit or scratch it with the tools used when opening the box. The protective plastic and the cardboard of the packaging will serve to protect the plate during installation.
- Apply waterproofing tape around the perimeter at the angles between the walls and the plate to ensure no leaks between the plate and the wall. The plate anchoring phase is recommended to apply longitudinal strips or multiple points of “Sikaflex” type polyurethane putty or similar on the already dry mortar base or plate.
- Never use glue cement for this work.
- Place the plate in its final position, making the drain coincides with the area intended for the valve, and then position the valve following the manufacturer’s instructions. It is necessary to use a non-siphon valve if the installation already has a siphon pot, since if not, the installation’s evacuation capacity may be affected.
- The plate should fit within the walls between 0.5 cm and 1 cm so that the back plating of the wall rests on it, which will guarantee better impermeability in the joint.
It is advisable to leave a margin of some two millimeters between the tile and the plate, which would act as an expansion joint when later sealed with silicone.
- Adjust the plate, checking that it is well supported and level in both directions to drain well before continuing to veneer the rest of the wall or mount the screen.
- Remove the protective plastic and silicone the entire perimeter in contact with the wall with neutral anti-mold silicone, letting it dry at least 24 hours before using the plate. Chemical silicone in contact with dishes can cause discoloration and even cracking of the dish surface.
- Check that the base is installed correctly and drains appropriately before proceeding with the installation of other elements. Dishes that have been cut whose length measurement is less than 900mm must be mounted with the cut part embedded in a wall; otherwise, the screen’s correct mounting will not be possible.
- Work auction
In the final process of plating and grouting the walls, the base must be protected with plastic to avoid any possible cement or grout stains that could fall on it.
If this happens, the surface should be cleaned quickly with a damp sponge before it dries, otherwise, cleaning it would be much more difficult, and the plate could be damaged.
Read More: How To Clean Stone Tile Shower
Special cautions should be noted when cleaning the walls of excess cement in the joints. On many occasions, products such as cement remover acids or healthy water are used, which drain and remain deposited for a long time on the plate and damage the outer surface. Although it supports this type of product, it only does so for short periods, so it must be rinsed and cleaned quickly. Never use the base as a landfill for the remains of the work, especially cement, which can stick to the tray or the drain, generating significant problems.
How to Install a Drain in a Concrete Floor
The shower’s traditional base is made from a concrete sub-floor, so installing a drain into a concrete shower tray shouldn’t be difficult. The drain must be installed through the concrete floor, either by inserting it on dry ground or through a hole in a precast concrete base.
Learn More: How To Install Towel Bar On Glass Shower Door
If you choose the latter installation method, you will need to remove some of the concrete to get to the drain. Whichever way you choose, installing a drain in a concrete shower tray should be a straightforward proposition that can be done by any home improvement enthusiast, expert, or novice. If you’re new to the do-it-yourself field, follow these simple tips to get the job done right.
Mark the area
Before you make any cuts in your concrete shower tray, you need to mark the location of the drain. Find the site that best connects the drain to the underground water system. Once you have the correct placement, start smoothing some concrete with sandpaper or a mechanical sander. Be careful not to press deep on the concrete; otherwise, the shower tray will be damaged. Measure the drain and determine where to plug the outlet. Then take your sandpaper and mark a similar area.
Cut away the concrete
Apply the chisel to the concrete and lightly tap the center of the area marked by the sandpaper. The hole you make shouldn’t be much bigger than the drain itself. Look for cracks and crevices in the shower tray, taking turns holding back with sandpaper and removing them with the chisel. Stop once you’ve made a hole in the concrete to the bottom of the shower tray. You will soon have enough space to install your drain.
Install the Drain
Slide the drain into the hole. Make sure it comes out on the other side. Go to space under the shower floor and connect the drainage connections. Plug the connections in the plumbing to keep them completely dry. Continue sliding the drain until the top is flush with the concrete pan, or even just a little below the surface, to encourage proper drainage. Once the drainage pieces are correctly in place, add a layer of concrete around the edges of the hole and drain.
Once the concrete is arid, you can surround the drains outside the edge with a thin layer of sealant. Use 100% silicone sealant. Cover all of the holes so that the pan is waterproof. Then let it dry.
How to Install a Walk-in Shower on a Concrete Floor
One important thing to note is to have the help of professionals and experts in the field. Only they will be able to advise you correctly about the work to be undertaken. If we use quality materials installed by a professional, there is very little chance of future problems.
The guidelines are as follows:
- In walk-in showers, the drain should have a particular slope so that water does not accumulate.
- Another solution is drainage systems with pipes that are installed on the wall. This is an exciting option that means that we do not have to step on the drain on the floor every time we shower. Learn fixing a slow bathtub drain.
- It is necessary to try to waterproof the area well before and clean it properly to avoid fungi’ proliferation.
- One-piece complete kits are usually a very convenient choice, as they are easily installed. Also, being adjustable, they adapt to almost all types of bathrooms.
Advantages of Walk-in Showers
When we think about the qualities that a bathroom should have, we are always looking for functionality and design, so space we have for this use is especially important. For this reason, walk-in showers are an exciting solution.
- They are comfortable, both for entering and leaving them, as well as for cleaning. The walk-in showers can have a tray or be installed at ground level, making them even easier to use.
- This feature makes them perfect for the elderly or disabled.
- They are simple to install. The built-in showers can be adjusted with practically all bathroom styles: in partial renovations, works from scratch, modern bathrooms, more classic.
- They allow the reuse of space. Bathtubs take up much more space than shower trays. Also, the bathrooms require greater consumption of water. By installing a shower, you will be reorganizing the space in your bathroom to enjoy more storage or other elements and services while avoiding wasting water as you would using a bathtub.
Site shower considerations
The walk-in showers are safe as long as a correct installation is carried out to avoid humidity. The most common are ground-level installations, but care must be taken in the choice of materials, as well as their insulation.
To ensure that the reform is perfect, it is essential to pay attention to the following points:
Classes and categories of materials
Special precautions should be noted to ensure that the floor is as non-slip as possible. Therefore, the most used material for work showers is a tile that is treated to prevent slipping. It is not expensive, and its finish is quite linear. There are also other options, such as porcelain or slate. However, they are not as effective as a tile since porcelain, for example, requires non-slip adhesive elements.
Shower tray lining
If we want to put a shower tray, we must take great care in choosing its coating. This will determine its effectiveness against possible water leaks and humidity. The most common coatings for this type of work are concrete, polished stone, and wood. In general, all these materials are already treated to prevent falls, which is a very aesthetic solution to replace old rugs.
Types of Construction Showers
Although there is a lot of variety, in the end, the decision will depend more on the space available. The most popular designs are the showers integrated into the bedroom, the cabins with natural light, the stone showers for the most rural settings, showers inside sliding wardrobes, showers fused with the environment.
How to Install of a Raised Shower Base on a Concrete Floor
Step 1: Tracing
Mark the concrete blocks cell, blocks, and plastic blocks to enhance and bear the recipient. Be sure to distribute the blocks well under the catcher.
Step 2: Install the exhaust system
The tray is designed to receive a 90mm diameter drain plug. Refer to the bung specifications for proper assembly.
Step 3: Install blocks/plinths under the shower tray
Build a belt of bricks or cinder blocks that are not necessarily sided by the side and slightly spaced. The presence of blocks under the receiver will provide an additional guarantee of rigidity for optimal resistance over time.
It is also possible to find adjustable feet on the market. Usually sold in packs of 5, they are placed under the receivers from 70x70cm to 90x90cm. The double is recommended for large format receivers. These must be distributed to balance the supports. We also recommend fixing a cleat to the wall at the level of the receiver area.
Step 4: angles
For shower trays greater than or equal to 120x80cm, it is advisable to place a row of concrete blocks, bricks, or aerated concrete blocks in the
Center of the (under the) tray and apply a thin layer of mortar on it. Glue. This reinforcement under the tray aims to have the same support surfaces as during recessed or straightforward installation. Then place the mortar pads at the four angles, as during the open or direct installation.
Step 5: Install the catcher
Once the blocks are installed, install the receiver in its location and check the flatness using a spirit level.
Step 6: silicone
Apply a silicone sealant between the tank and the floor as well as the wall to ensure waterproofing.
This article has helped us a lot in installing a shower base on a concrete floor, raising a shower base on a concrete floor, installing a shower drain in concrete fall, and other relevant topics discussed in the articles.