How to Install a Toilet in a Basement with a Rough Pipe
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Rough-in Pipes contain unfinished plumbing pipes. They are ready to use, but nothing is attached to them yet. That is why the drains are covered with covers to prevent sewer fumes. Installing the toilet on an existing suction line is easy. The convenience dividends pay off with labour and minimal expense when water and sewage systems are filled with rough-in. In this guide, you will learn how to install a toilet in a basement with a rough pipe.
How to Install a Toilet in a Basement with a Rough Pipe
The tools you need:
- Hammer and hand drill with drills bits
- Hacksaw for metal
- Supply hose to the toilet bowl.
- Flange the toilet (same material as your rough-in pipe)
- The glue that suits your rough-in pipe material
- shut off valve
- Screws for concrete
Install the water supply pipe nine to twelve inches from the floor on the left side of the toilet. Also, install a 90-degree shut-off valve on the supply pipe.
Remove the plastic cover from the floor flange by touching it with a hammer and breaking it. Next, place the wax seal on the floor flange with the rubber side in the duct.
Insert the cabinet screws that came with the wax seal into the holes in the toilet flange on the floor. Move them so that the line between them is centred above the drain parallel to the wall.
Lift the seat over the flange; align the mounting holes with the cabinet screws and place the toilet down. Cabinet screws should now come out of the mounting holes on the toilet.
Press the toilet seat fully against the flange until it touches the floor on all sides of the seat. An easy way to do this is to temporarily place a chair on a chair and sit on it.
Place the supplied washer on each bolt and follow the nut. Turn the nuts until you press with your finger. Tighten firmly with an open-end wrench, but do not over tighten, as the porcelain will easily crack. The aim is to tighten so that the seat does not swing. If too many screws come out after tightening, cut them with a saw.
Complete installation of the toilet according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When tightening the screws that connect the tank to the seat, use the same precautions to prevent excessive tightening and cracking of the toilet. It’s better to tighten a little later than to break the toilet now.
How to Decorate a Bathroom Sink with Rough Plumbing
Installing rough plumbing is the hardest part of installing your sink, so you’re in luck if you already have one. It should contain a drain and two water connections. If the water connections are already equipped with shut-off valves, sink installation is considerably easier, but you may easily add them if they aren’t. In addition, it is easier to connect the P-washbasin siphon and ensure its airtightness if you can centre the sink above the drain. If you can’t do this, you may need to add a sink drain pipe.
Install shut-off valves on hot and cold-water pipes if they are not already available. Take a look at the valves that control the lines you are working on so you can turn off the water. If you cannot find special valves, close the main water valve in the house.
Cut off the caps soldered to the pipes using a pipe cutter. Let about 1 inch of pipe protruding from the wall.
Connect the valve to the compression fitting by sliding the compression nut over the pipe and slide the brass collar supplied with the valve over the end of the pipe. Place the valve on the pipe and hand tightens the nut. Continue tightening while using adjustable pliers to grip the valve and a wrench to spin the nut clockwise relative to the valve.
Glue the ABS siphon adapter to the ABS drain with cement if it is no longer available. The adapter reduces the drain hole from 2 “to 1 1/2” and has a compression fitting for connecting the siphon outlet.
Before lowering the sink into the sink or attaching it to the wall, attach the faucet and drain to the sink. Faucets come in various designs, but most are connected to the sink using a lock nut, which you tighten with adjustable pliers.
Screw the drain nozzle or nipple onto the filter and apply a sufficient amount of sanitary sealant to the underside of the filter edge. Insert the filter into the drain hole and tighten the sink lock nut on the filter. Tighten the nut with adjustable pliers.
Connect the tap to the water supply using flexible supply hoses. They do not come with a faucet, so when buying them, make sure that they are long enough and that the connectors fit your faucet and isolation valves. Use adjustable pliers to tighten the hoses to the shut-off valves and valve stems.
Cut off the drain nipple with a saw if it protrudes below the drain hole. Ideally, it should be at the same level or slightly higher. If it is more than 2 inches taller, extend it with an adapter that is a 1 1/2″ PVC pipe with a compression fitting that you tighten by hand.
Tighten the P-siphon inlet to the nipple or extension by hand. Rotate the siphon to align the outlet with the drain and measure the distance between them. Cut a piece of 1.5-inch PVC pipe 2 inches longer than the distance you measured and insert the ends into the siphon outlet and drain. Manually tighten the swivel nuts at both connection points.
Turn on the water to the isolation valves, and then turn on the valves. Open the faucet to release all the air, and then fill the sink. Drain the sink and check the drain connections for leaks. Tighten all leaking connectors with adjustable pliers.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a special toilet in the basement?
Yes, gravity toilets are the most common type of toilet and are still a good choice for basement bathrooms. They work by discharging water from the tank into the bowl and catcher and pushing the waste down by gravity.
Is a bathroom in the basement difficult to install?
Adding a bathroom in the basement is a big and complicated project. But that doesn’t mean you can’t do it. Thousands of do-it-yourselfers are doing this job every year, and so are you. But, first, we will install the “DWV” system (drain, drain, and ventilation), which is the most complex part of sanitary installations in the basement.
What is rough about plumbing in the basement?
In general, pre-preparation refers to the construction phase after the completion of the mainframe and the installation of the initial services (such as distribution or piping). Still, their endpoints (such as rosettes or fittings) have not been installed.
Is it possible to put a bathroom in the basement without a rough finish?
Older houses usually do not have rough repairs. However, if your basement is not equipped with basic gutters and vents, you need to add them. Depending on where your main drain pipe is in the house, you may even need to install a special toilet with an increased flush level.
Is adding a bathroom in the basement worth the house?
If you have space, a bathtub with a shower or a bathtub will significantly contribute to the value of your home. However, if space is an issue, half the bathroom will still significantly increase the value of reselling your home. An example is a bathroom in the basement.
How to put a bathroom in the basement without breaking the concrete?
The best way to install a shower in a basement bathroom without damaging the floor is to look at a toilet with a high water level. The Saniflo system is put on concrete floors, unlike standard basement showers, which require drilling the shower base and concrete to create a drain.
There are many ways to install a toilet in the basement. Before starting this project, you need to know your expectations and limitations. To make your work easier, you can use a toilet that does not require digging.
But because you have a rough-in piper, you don’t have to look for a special toilet bowl. Instead, just connect the toilet to the pipe.
So before you start your project, make sure you rate your basement before installation, turn off the water supply, and make sure you have measured everything accurately and the necessary materials.